March 4th 1893
My dear Emily,
You will be looking out for a letter from me and I must make a beginning this
morning. The SS Karaghat arrived in Mandrie harbour at five. The launch was
soon alongside that was sent out for me, and a young man also with a telegram
from Col Hunter. A carriage was awaiting me at the Bunder (?) and I was whisked
off to the travellers bungalow where a substantial Chota Hazari was soon ready
for me. I felt like somebody as every one was most polite and nothing to pay
anywhere. The young man said everything was done to Colonel Hunter’s orders.
The 36 miles of driving with servants in scarlet livery was done in little more
than four hours and I drove into the Residency to find to find Colonel and Mrs
Hunter and Harold awaiting me on the steps of the Residency. Lily Hunter and
Mrs Burke soon appeared to add to the cordial welcome. Harold and then Lily
came into my room and we visited in exchanging news until I was ready to prepare
to make myself presentable. Harold looks thin. He says he is very well and that
it is only the hard riding in the districts that has pulled down his flesh.
He appears very well. As for Lily I like her much. She has a sweet girlish face
and her manners are pretty and modest. The two are evidently very fond of each
other but there is no false prudishness or silly nonsense. There are a Mr and
Mrs McClelland here from Jannapore. I do not know what he is nor his title as
yet. Then there is a Lieutenant Harrison. He is the Political Agent and Chief
Engineer etc...and the best man. The padre a Rev Mr Bailie is expected every
moment. The house is large with many rooms and all seems to be comfortably cared
for. Col and Mrs Hunter are at home in the act of entertaining. In the evening
of yesterday all went to drive out, Col Hunter, M MClelland and I. My thirty
six miles were enough for one day. We sat under the trees and talked. After
dinner there was music and billiards.
This morning at eight o’clock we all went to visit the palace at the Raja’s
invitation. The native town with its very high and massive walls has within
a clean and prosperous look. The houses are all of stone and tiles and everybody
seemed comfortably clothed, not a naked forlorn child did I see. The new Palace
is about fifteen years old. The Rajah and his brother welcomed us all the top
of the fine staircase and was most kind and polite in showing us over the new
and the old palace. The new is decorated in French and Italian style –
a great pity. It is bright and beautiful but not in harmony with the Rajah and
his people. Both the young men spoke English well and their manners were gracious
and courtly. They are fine looking Rajputs. The old palace some of it 140 years
old was much more interesting, small and dark compared with the other, but the
carvings and ceilings were exquisite And what surprised me very much, scarcely
a reminder of idolatry I do not think I saw a cut or a caring of a god or goddess.
There were many pictures hanging up, a large number were English portraits of
the year 1750 -60, innumerable mirrors, a picture of Christ and his disciples
and another where he was healing the sick, both painted in 1756. In one room
there were cushions and divans, the air heavy with incense and candle smoke,
all sorts of odd things about and a very sweetened music box playing languid
airs. It was just such a voluptuous room as made one think of Mrs Isaacs. Since
our return we have had breakfast. This evening we are invited to the Rajahs
to see fireworks and then to dinner. My invitation is a bright green card with
gilt lettering.
5th Yesterday afternoon we drove over to the church and looked to its arrangements
and rehearsed the hymns. At seven o’clock we were dressed for dinner and
drove to the Hamirsir Tank. The whole lake the mandup the museum and part of
the city walls were illuminated and a most lovely sight and pyramids of lamps
were swilling about in the lake. The Rajah and his brother received us in the
mandup and later all the European party had arrived, the fireworks were let
off. Rockets set pieces showers of fire and many such successful things. Then
we drove through long lines and crowds of people to the palace. The palace is
lit by electricity and was a blaze of light from the courtyard every room we
entered. Col and Mrs Hunter were the host and hostess of the dinner, there were
sixteen at the table. The officers are very few in camp now. The flowers fruit
and bonbons and light and the gay dresses of the ladies made a very brilliant
scene, the dinner was a very good one and the Rajah, his brother and the Prince
came in at dessert. There was a band playing all the time. I suppose I am indebted
to being Harold’s only relative to enjoy all the privileges of first lady.
I sat between Col Hunter and Mr McClellan this time, for Lily sat at her father’s
right as the dinner was in her honor. After coffee we adjourned to the magnificent
durbar room and listened to some music, a part of it was played on bowls full
of water jaltarang, it is called. All the retainers of the palace were allowed
to come in. It was very generous of the Rajah to do so much.
Monday. Yesterday we had a quite pleasant Sunday. We had morning service and
communion at 8, I rested and read during the day and then at five went to evening
service. Mr Bailie gave a simple but good talk. Afterwards we all drove to the
King’s gardens and had a walk about the beautiful grounds. I had Harold
and Lily to myself. The Rajah and his brother were there too and we chatted
with them awhile. After dinner Harold came into my room and we had reading and
talking. He seems to very glad I came. It is pleasant to know that Lily also
belongs to the ------ known. She seems a very conscientious girl. I am glad
she takes no wine, she and Harold scarcely ever touch anything but water.
This forenoon we have been to the church to decorate it. Mr Bailey was very
suggestive and helpful. I had the pulpit decorated and our Mrs Burke and our
Mrs McClelland the altar and chancel and the rest we did together. It is all
to be photographed and I will see that you have one. I have just been to talk
with Lily and now must look after my own vanities.
The house looks very pretty. The cake is magnificent. There is to be a band
outside of the church and then here before the house. The Rajah and his brother
will be at the wedding.
Evening. The festivities are over and you will wish to hear of them. At quarter
to two Mrs Newton, Mrs Burke, Mrs McClelland and I drove to the church. The
road from the residency to the church was lined with mounted troops who saluted
as we passed. After us came Harold, Mr McLelland and Lieutenant Harrington the
best man. Mrs Hunter, Capt Light and I sat on one side of the chancel and the
officers and ladies of the camp on the other. Soon the Rajah and his brother
came, most resplendent in silken robes, with diamonds, rubies, pearls and emeralds.
They sat at the end of our pew. A number of Parsee and Bramin officials all
came in and some young officers. Harold looked calm and self possessed as he
stood in his fine uniform waiting for his bride. As soon as the bride appeared
leaning on her father’s arm, we heard the hymn ‘the voice that breathed
o’er Eden. The bridal dress was a heavy white satin with a small double
plait around the bottom of the skirt which had a long train of course. The bodice
had the sash which is in fashion now and the immense puffer sleeves. The upper
part was covered with beautiful Brussels lace and at her neck the bridge wore
a lovely brooch of pearls, something like this (she gives a small diagram -
KJ), Harold’s gift. Her veil made a large square which fell gracefully
about her and was caught by a short wreath of orange blossoms and she had a
spray of the same on the lace in front. She carried an exquisite bouquet all
of orange flowers with long white streamers They were a fine looking pair as
they stood together Harold’s responses were clear and firm when it came
to Lilian’s turn I could see his lip tremble, however there was no need
for she seemed as self possessed as he after the first few words her tones were
low but distinct. As they went out of the church the band outside struck up
the wedding march and the wedded pair drove of in a four-in-hand to the residency.
The rest of us followed and first of all we had out photographs taken on the
steps, then we went in, the bride cut the cake with the bridegrooms sword and
then healths were drunk of the bridal couple, of Col and Mrs Hunter, and of
the Rajah. Harold made a proper speech in return in a very proper way. The Rajah
performed ---- for them and made an exceedingly good speech. While the friends
were looking at the presents Mrs Burke and I helped the bride lay aside her
wedding robes. She was soon metamorphized into a trim little travelling bride
in dark blue serge and a white straw hat. After a cup of tea, they started off
for Mandrie, amid a shower of rice, roses and slippers. They are to stay at
the residency there until Thursday morning and then go with the McLellands to
Jamnagar and stay one night, starting by dark the next day for Ahmedabad and
then on to Palansour. When the guests were gone Mr Bailie cut some of the cake
and it was sent to the camp. The rest is to be done today. We packed up most
of the presents and were tired when dinner came and only sat on the verandah
and chatted until an early retiring. Lieut Harrington wrote up an article for
the papers. This morning we have been finishing up the packing and now go to
breakfast.
Noon. Yesterday after breakfast we went to the palace to the the Ranees. There
are two of them and four children. The prince is a fine little fellow of 7 years.
It was a really interesting sight and visit. In the afternoon we were again
busy with the cakes and then went for tennis given by the Rajahs brother. I
had a long talk with him. Mr Balie and Lt Harrington went off early in the morning.
Tomorrow morning Col Hunter the McLellands and I are to start at five o’clock
and just have time to see Harold and Lilian before they leave with the McLellands
for Jahmagar, Col Hunter is going with me to Bombay. He has business with the
Governor. It will be very nice for me to have his company. He has ordered a
carriage to be ready for me at the wharf. Everything is free and kindly Mrs
McLelland and I have just returned from visiting the girls school and the High
School. The letters go off today and I have come very nearly to the end of my
story. I will try and enclose a copy of the list of presents if I can find time.
I am writing to Fred but only a short letter. If you will let Chloe see this
I will be very glad for I cannot copy the proceedings of the week. I suppose
Justin will soon be with you as he will probably leave Vienna on Friday. I wish
you could have been here but I have tried to be second best.
Very lovingly your sister Anstice Abbott.